From Kings to Sardines – Vienna, Austria

While looking through my pictures from Vienna I didn’t expect my favorite ones to be of the graffiti near the river. When I thought of Vienna I pictured large white buildings and instruments everywhere with classical music playing in the background, and yes it was partly true to what I imagined, but some parts of the city were covered in detailed and colorful graffiti that really caught our attention.

We didn’t expect to be doing much while in Vienna when we realized how much more expensive this city was compared to Prague. An average entrée would be about 14 euro along with a bottle of water which would be another 3 euro is a bit out of our price range as travelers in our early twenties. The one thing that was cheap in the city was the wine, and boy did we take advantage of it! I know in the past I said I don’t like IMG_7291German food, but I had the best schnitzel the first night in Vienna I couldn’t stop raving about it and sharing it with Ben.

Later that night we took a walk through Vienna after eating at a backpacker’s paradise, an all-you-can-eat, pay-as-you-wish Pakistani restaurant. (Bonus: water was free!) It’s amazing what you can find when just wandering around a new city in Europe. After every turn and corner there is a new cathedral better than the last and an old building just waiting to be explored. We were fortunate to come across a street festival with hundreds of people drinking outside of the most beautiful building I have seen in Europe yet. We couldn’t get over that we just so happened to stumble across it. We also ventured into the courtyard of a palace built in the 13th century as well. It was a pretty productive night for us.

Unfortunately, I think the thing I will remember most about our time in Vienna is the overnight train ride to Venice. This ride was the most miserable yet eventful part of our trip in Austria. While waiting for our train we met an older couple from Pittsburgh who had just traveled through the Balkans because they had “visited everywhere else in the world.” As we talked to them all I could think was of myself at that age hopefully saying the same thing.

When our train arrived we noticed it looked different from the other trains we had taken while in Europe. This one had compartments in each car to sit six people each, just like the train Harry Potter takes to Hogwarts, only this one was much more cramped and colder. I couldn’t believe we would have to sit for 11-hours overnight stuffed into a cabin like sardines with complete strangers. Ben and I tried our best to sleep until a man came aboard and started talking to everyone about where we were all headed and current events and life in general. As I mentioned before, first impressions are not always accurate, for later on in the ride we spoke to this very successful millionaire from Saudi Arabia for hours about life, cultures, and the meaning of success.

The only reason we were able to chat comfortably with the man is due to our crossing the border of Italy early in the morning. I was startled awake by a booming voice coming down the hall and Ben rushing me to get my passport out. In the car with us at that moment was the Saudi Arabian man, me and Ben, and two Pakistani men. A large man opened our door and demanded to see our passports so Ben and I held them out to him as he shined a flashlight on our pictures quickly. He then turned to the two Pakistani men and asked for their documents. They shook their heads and said they didn’t have anything on them. They were forced from their seats and taken out to the platform. When I looked out the window there were about twenty Middle Eastern men standing on the platform lacking passports.

It is a scene I will never forget in my lifetime. Americans right now always hear about Syrian refugees trying to get out of their countries and the debates on whether to take them in or not, but there are so many other refugees from other countries. Seeing these men try so hard to find a better life for themselves and having it stripped away in a second made me realize the reality of the situation and not hide behind headlines and articles and debates. We later found out one of the men in our car had been in Greece for the last five years illegally making a life for himself and wanted to make his way to Italy. After all those years he will be sent back to Pakistan with little to no opportunity to make a great life for himself.

 

From Europe With Love

xoxo

Cobblestone Hiking – Prague, Czech Republic

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There have been many instances in my life where first impressions do not always show true character. Arriving in Prague was one of those instances. We stepped into Prague hungry and exhausted so we went up to a sausage stand at the bus station and tried to decipher what these foreign words meant. When we saw the prices of a single sausage we were mortified at the numbers 36 and 49 next to the pictures. How could a sandwich in Germany cost just 3 euro and a hotdog in Prague cost 49?! Turns out Czech Republic doesn’t use the euro, but another currency, one that we still aren’t sure what is called, with an exchange rate of 1 euro to 25 “Czech thingies” as we’ve been calling them. To put it into perspective a half liter of beer at a restaurant would be around $1.50, a ticket to use the trams $1, a breakfast consisting of an Irish coffee, regular coffee, an eclair, eggs Benedict, and another egg platter $15 with tip. We lived like royalty for the 40 hours we spent here.

When we walked into the streets the people here looked significantly different than how Western Europeans and Americans look. Their skin is very fair and their facial features are small. Many of the young adults dress in black and have odd piercings and colored hair, I felt like I was at a punk rock concert most of the time. The men also stare shamelessly at women, checking them out and trying to make eye contact. A bar we went to the first night cheated us out of some money knowing that we were unfamiliar with the currency and the coins that they used. The graffiti on the buildings and overcast skies didn’t help the impression of the city either. The first night here I felt unsafe and on edge walking IMG_7237through poorly lit streets to find a restaurant.

Everything I had first thought about Prague on the first night disappeared when we woke up the next morning to find the sun shining on the river and the beautiful trees and flowers and people walking to work. It was like being in a completely different city! Our first adventure of the day was finding the grave of the famous short story writer Franz Kafka. In almost every creative writing class I have taken and some English classes we have been assigned “The Metamorphosis” and other stories so when I discovered we were near his grave I had to go! We traveled
through two cemeteries, one Christian and the other Jewish. Tombstones towered over each other and left little room to walk between them. It was peaceful being under tall trees with ivy and moss growing around the trunks among the silence of the deceased. I love the history in cemeteries and the possible life stories connected to each grave.

Our next stop was yet another cemetery to see a famous violinist, Anton Dvorak, who is intertwined somewhere in Ben’s family tree. His grave was located just a 15 minute walk from where we were staying. To get to the castle and cathedral we had to hike up many hills and steps in the city. It felt as if we were literally hiking up a mountain on cobblestone streets. There were multiple times we had to stop to catch our breath before continuing up the hills of Prague.

The cathedral at the top of the cliff overlooking the river was jaw-dropping. It had been IMG_7218_Fotorbuilt during the 13th century and had intricate carvings on the outside along with two large steeples with bells that rang every hour. (The bells in European churches are so IMG_7235authentic and beautiful.) When we walked inside the only word out of my mouth was “Wow.” Paintings covered the walls and ceilings and detailed stain glass windows were everywhere. The altar was my favorite part of the church, decorated with gold and sat in front of even more beautiful artwork.

Our next adventure took us to the famous Charleston Bridge, which was built in the 14th century and had many religious statues along with herds of tourists, locals, and street vendors and artists. It seems like the kind of place that will always have visitors. The view from the bridge overlooked the river and both modern day Prague as well as the Old City Square which contained another castle, amazing cathedral, and of course more intense hills.

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Charleston Bridge

We ventured into the Old City and it felt as if we were in yet another city. Though it was an extremely touristy area it still felt very authentic and an important place to be while visiting Prague. While walking and exploring the town we came across a bar that served honey beer, also known as mead in the Middle Ages. Being an English major and taking a couple of Medieval Literature classes I had to stop and drink the beer always mentioned in “Beowulf” and other writings of the Anglo-Saxons. It wasn’t what I had expected it to be, but at least now I can say that I drank mead in Prague!

This morning before catching our bus we made a quick trip to the oldest synagogue (built in 1270) in Europe, The Old New Synagogue, which is extremely historical and important in Judaica. There is an ancient legend of a Rabbi creating a creature out of clay, called a

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Old New Synagogue

golem, to protect the Jews from the danger of being murdered by the Czechs. The golem is said to be kept in the attic of this synagogue. There are some other important events that happened surrounding this synagogue, which Ben knows much more about than I do.

So far in our trip Prague has been my favorite city to visit. As we were packing our bags all we kept saying was that we wish we could stay here for a few more days. The architecture is gorgeous and colorful, there are so many historic sites and beautiful churches that still need to be explored, and everything costs so little. Don’t worry Prague, this isn’t our last time being together.

From Europe With Love

xoxo

 

Officially Backpacking – Berlin, Germany

IMG_7167I didn’t feel like a real backpacker until we waited until it was time to go to Berlin. The bus left at 12:45 am and lasted about 8 hours. Until that time we walked around Munich, sat in the train station, the bus station, and some questionable food places carrying everything we brought with us. Sleeping on the bus wasn’t too terrible, it kept us awake enough to walk about 10 miles exploring the city.

It turns out that the day we came to Berlin was a big Catholic holiday for the country and almost everything was closed. I mean everything. When we left the bus station we tried to find a supermarket to pick up some breakfast, but it was closed. Then we tried some cafes and restaurants, all closed! We thought maybe it was because it was so early in the morning, until we asked someone where we could go to buy some food. An hour later we finally found a café that was open. For those of you who know about my coffee addiction, I want to give a shout-out to German coffee, it’s dark, strong, and there is a little foam at the top. (I’m determined to try coffee in every country we go to.)

After spending a little more than we expected in Munich we decided to keep Berlin pretty cheap so we did some sightseeing and that experience is just as enjoyable as spending money on something. So we made our way to a place called Museum Island. We got to walk along the river and see adorable dogs being walked. The dogs in Germany are so well behaved and rarely on leashes. They follow their owners loyally. They are also allowed in retail stores and restaurants! I was puppy crazy the whole time we were in Germany. After walking about 4 miles we finally made it to the island. The moment I saw the beautiful architecture and buildings the pain in my feet was worth it.

The building that caught by eye here was the Berliner Cathedral, or the Dom. It is a Catholic church set next to a river and was surrounded by tourists. The colors of blue, green, and brown made the building stand out against the cloudy sky. Unfortunately we couldn’t go inside because of the holiday and masses were being said.IMG_7170

Ben was adamant on going to see the Berlin Wall Memorial. Not knowing much about the Berlin Wall I wasn’t as excited to go. What would there be to see since the wall was taken down already? I’m glad he dragged me there though. After reading the stories about fugitives trying to cross the wall and families and friends being separated I realized what a terrible thing the wall had been to Germany.IMG_7165

For dinner we came across an American restaurant, tired of German food and the hearty meats, we decided to go in and check it out. You know how we have diners with 1950s themes? That’s what this was, except it was called Sixties and had a bar in it. They playedIMG_7162 music from the 60s to the 80s and had Route 66 signs pasted everywhere along with famous celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe, Elvis Presley, Audrey Hepburn, Alfred Hitchcock, and somehow a picture of a Native American man worked his way in there. There were paintings on the ceilings of “famous” places in America, however we didn’t recognize any of them, except for the painting of a mushroom cloud with the words “Atomic Bomb” written under it. This was definitely the strangest thing to happen while in Europe so far.

Speaking of food, their sandwiches are to die for. It seems like they eat them any time of the day, breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The bread is so fresh and so are the vegetables and IMG_7174meat on them. Definitely one of my favorite things about Germany.

From Europe With Love

xoxo

Dachau Concentration Camp

IMG_7028Knowing that thousands of people had died where I stood in the gas chamber at Dachau concentration camp left me breathless. We almost skipped going to the camp but something inside told me that we would regret not going. After touring and witnessing the place where so many inhuman and evil acts were performed I’m positive we would have regretted not going. I feel that it is only necessary to make a separate post for my visit to Dachau.

The camp is set back in the forest away from the main road with large gravel paths leading to the entrance. There were many tourists from different countries, I was actually very surprised at how many people were there on a rainy Sunday afternoon.

The second we walked through the iron gates and into the barren landscape you couldn’t hear a thing except for the gravel rubbing together as people walked. I wasn’t sure what I was expecting to see, but we saw was not it. There were one-story buildings on the perimeter, blank of any color. It was a large rectangle of nothing. Gravel filled in the empty space where many of the prisoners would stand for hours on end, not moving, during roll call each day.IMG_7051One of the bunkers was reconstructed and allowed tourists to go in and see where the prisoners slept, ate, and bathed. IMG_7034They were tight quarters, it was difficult for just the tourists to navigate around and walk through the building, I can’t imagine what it would be like to be kept there. Bunk beds took up most of the rooms and the bathroom had only three toilets and one fountain for washing.

The last building we went into was the crematorium. I had expected to see just a little building with a cremation chamber, I wasn’t expecting to walk through the process of murdering people and then burning the bodies. The building was once again one floor and one straight line. The first room was for disrobing of the prisoners as they were told that they were going into the next room to shower. As you can guess, this was not the case. The next room we walked into was dimly lit with cement walls and no windows at all. This was the gas chamber where up to 150 people were killed at a time. Nobody spoke. I could only stay here for a couple of minutes. IMG_7043Knowing that thousands of people were murdered where I stood made me sick to my stomach. The next room was where the bodies would be kept until they were moved into the cremation chamber with four oven-looking machines.

We walked along a path in the forest where bodies and ashes would be stored and buried. The scenery was beautiful and birds were chirping as the sun was peeking through the clouds, which felt extremely wrong for where we were and what had happened here. The whole atmosphere was peaceful but eerie. It’s a feeling that can never be described with words. All I can say is that if you are ever in Europe and have the chance to go to a concentration camp make it a point to go.

Ben and I spoke with a German student studying at a university in Munich about WWII and the Holocaust. The Germans seem to be very ashamed of this part of history in their country. There are many memorials dedicat13214545_1595516360759803_1664356865_oed to the victims of the war and Germans who resisted the Nazis. She took us to the University of Munich where during the war a small group of students and a professor, known as the White Rose, released thousands of papers, letters, and flyers protesting against the Nazis in one of the buildings and were later murdered for acting against them. There are copies of these papers recreated in the sidewalk and near a fountain outside the building this took place in.

Of course being in Germany I knew that there would still be a large presence of WWII and we would pass memorials and historic sites, but I never thought there would so much.

As It Should Be – Munich, Germany

IMG_7021If you haven’t heard of the Autobahn in Germany it is a highway that has no set speed limit. To Americans, or at least to me, this sounds like many accidents just waiting to happen, but according to our friends there are rarely accidents on these highways. On our way to Munich we rode on the Autobahn and of course Ben being reckless and wanting to take advantage of the nixed speed limit wanted to go as fast as possible. The car reached 115 mph. I looked around the car and everyone seemed fine at this speed, like it was any other day. I on the other hand stared at the ceiling praying for the car to stay in control. It only lasted for about 30 seconds, but those were the most stressful 30 seconds of my life. We made it to Munich safely, don’t worry Mom.

Munich is a mixture of nature, modern city buildings, and old fabulous churches and architecture. I have never seen a city like it. On our way to a restaurant for dinner we had to walk through the City Centre. IMG_7002In the town square known as Marienplatz, stood an absolutely beautiful and intricate building now known as the new city hall. The minute I saw the architecture I became obsessed and had to stand and stare at it for minutes as Ben waited for me to get over it. I later learned that Marienplatz has been Munich’s town square since 1158. People would come to trade goods, celebrate festivals and holidays, and gather together. It gives me chills to think about how many people have stood in the same place I did over almost nine centuries!

As for the nature in Munich we visited a large space called the English Garden. It reminded me of Central Park but it felt less manmade. I know I keep mentioning trees when talking about Germany, but they really are captivating, towering over everyone and swaying in the wind. IMG_7011Throughout the garden are little kiosks where you can buy beer sit and enjoy, or walk around. That’s right, here in Germany you can walk around drinking a beer at any time of the day. How cool is that? Oh you can also sunbath naked in the garden during the summer. Germany is pretty relaxed on the way people want to live their lives.

While walking in the Garden we came to a rushing river near the main road. People were crowded around the river watching people surf against the current. The current of this river was so strong that it made a few waves that the surfers would ride against. It was pretty entertaining watching them ride for a few seconds and jump off or fall into the water and then the next surfer jump in. At first I was standing away from the edge so the surfers wouldn’t splash me, and wouldn’t you know the second I decide to get closer one of the surfers splashed my whole left side, just my luck.

 

I wish I could say that I am enjoying German food, but I can’t. I think I’ve had pork for every meal this weekend. Their food options are mostly potatoes and some kind of hearty meat such as beef, pork, or liver. Ben had some roasted ox cheeks one night, which were pretty good though! We were introduced to a Mediterranean food called a donër, which is shaved meat, usually chicken, with tzatziki sauce, cabbage, lettuce, onions, and tomatoes all put between a bun. There are places to buy them everywhere and they are decently cheap. The sandwiches are also good here, very fresh and on delicious breads.

Life in Germany seems happy and easy. Everything is how it is supposed to be. This is an extremely broad and vague statement but people here aren’t, well, inconsiderate or blindly complacent. When standing on an escalator people who wish to walk up stay to the left and the rest stand on the right. Drinking beer is allowed almost anywhere and is sold pretty much everywhere, but you don’t see drunken people in the middle of the day. Some highways have no speed limit and there are less accidents than in America, which I learned only allows cars to go up to 120 mph until it stops automatically. Safe sex ads are posted throughout the city in train stations and city centers along with condom dispensers. I also bought a 1.5 liter bottle of water for 11 cents, where in America it would probably cost around $3.50. The regulations in this country are easy going and do not dictate who people should think or live. Unlike America, where sex and drinking are seen as shameful and dangerous and there are limits and restrictions on how we live our lives.

One more thing I have to mention, Germany is so eco-friendly it makes me happy every time I see a trashcan with four different openings for paper, plastic, landfill, and other waste. The streets here are very clean, it’s rare to see a piece of trash on the sidewalk or even graffiti. While riding on the rain we saw solar panel fields and wind turbines creating natural reusable energy. When one is finished drinking out of a plastic bottle there are machines to dispose them and give back a few cents. The toilets also do not hold as much water as in America and are more conservative. I admire this country so much for being carbon neutral and putting in an effort to help the environment.IMG_7023

From Europe With Love

xoxo

Essen – Ansbach, Germany

 

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After an 8-hour flight and another 3 hours on the train we finally made it to our first town, Ansbach, Germany. Walking off of the plane I expected to already be immersed in German culture, but what was the first thing I saw? A Burger King. Oh and then a KFC right next to that. I guess wherever we travel there will always be some sort of American impression.

I’ll skip over all of the boring transportation details so all I will say is this:

  1. Trains in Europe are amazing
  2. We almost slept through one of our stops. Definitely learned a lesson about sleeping on trains.

Downtown Ansbach is pretty suburban, however we are staying a few minutes away in I guess what you would call a neighborhood. The hotel is absolutely adorable and very few people speak English here. I have never been in a situation where I was unable to communicate through language, so you can imagine my frustration when we were asking for directions to a place to eat.

Ben and I decided to go for a walk throughout the neighborhood and enjoy the scenery of the rolling hills of Germany. (There are so many hills here, and trees!) Everything is more colorful in Europe than in America. We passed some houses that were bright yellow and one that was green. There are beautiful flowers everywhere; I could smell them everywhere we walked. As we were walking along narrow winding roads we still hadn’t come across a restaurant or café so we asked an older gentleman walking his dog. He didn’t speak a word of English and we don’t know anything helpful in German (scheibe will not get you very far) He pointed us in the direction of a restaurant, but we got lost along the way. As we retraced our footsteps back to the hotel we ran into the man again. He gave us a strange look that said “What are you doing back here?” Ben threw his hands up in the air and exclaimed, “Keine!” (no) so this gracious man motioned us to follow him down a road.

As we get closer to the restaurant we can smell the food. He pointed to his nose and sniffed, giving us a smile and pointing towards the restaurant. Where does he drop us off? Right back to the restaurant connected to our hotel. Once we realized where we were all we could do was laugh and walk into the restaurant.

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This morning we woke up to a rooster outside somewhere at 6 am. Of all my time living in the country, I can’t say a rooster has ever woke me up. Breakfast was served just half an hour later. When we walked out there was a spread of homemade rolls, deli meat, eggs, yogurt, cereal, fruit, and oddly enough olives, pickles, and roasted stuffed peppers. It was absolutely delicious! The food in Europe is so much fresher than the food in America. Also, one thing we have noticed, the water served here is always carbonated, it has never been tap water.

We met up with Ben’s best friend who is stationed in Germany and he took us into town and showed us some of the local attractions. We walked through the streets and admired the beautiful architecture! We came across a large garden filled with colorful flowers, fountains, and trees we walked through that was once used by royalty to host parties and gatherings. The palace was, of course, huge with lots of windows, however it looked abandoned and slightly run down.

So far Germany has been a great start to our trip!

From Europe With Love

xoxo

 

Taking Europe by Storm

For years I have thought about starting a blog but was always stuck on what to write about. I never thought my life was exciting enough to share with people, until now. This is the story of a girl from a small town in Pennsylvania leaving the country for the first time to travel around Europe with her boyfriend for a month.

This trip has been months in the making. It started right before Ben’s graduation in January. He said he wanted to travel this summer since he finally finished college. At the time I didn’t think I would be able to manage my time or money to go with him but things just happened to fall into place and here we are! After long nights of planning, researching, and scheduling tomorrow night we will be boarding a plane to Germany and travel the continent by bus, train, and plane.

Some might say that we were too ambitious in our planning of this trip. 12 different cities in 7 countries in only 25 days, we must be a little crazy. (And that’s with Barcelona and Geneva having to be cut out) There is just too much to see though! So going counterclockwise throughout Europe we will be visiting Frankfurt, Ansbach, Munich, Berlin, Prague, Vienna, Venice, Rome, Florence, Paris, Brussels, and Amsterdam.

I’m definitely most excited for Rome and Paris. I remember learning about Ancient Rome in sixth grade and feeling an intense attachment to the Colosseum, I’m not sure whether it’s the architecture, the events that once took place, or the fact that it is such an old structure but I knew I had to see it at some point in my life. It might also be that I’m Italian and just need some homemade pasta from the motherland but I look forward to being in Italy the most. But of course Paris is second runner up. After taking 5 years of French of course I have to go test out my skills and eat a croissant staring up at the Eiffel Tower.

With all of this traveling and moving around every other day we decided to stay true to the nature of backpacking and use backpacks to carry everything. Now, if you don’t know me I absolutely love clichés, so I was excited to buy a large pack and walk through the streets of a foreign city. However, after about 4 hours of trying to decide which outfits to bring (trust me trying to be comfortable and still look slightly cute is a challenge) and having to pack and unpack multiple times the idea of living out of a 40 liter bag isn’t so appealing. I’m glad to say I have finally perfected by wardrobe and have a bag that I can walk around with for hours.

It’s difficult to find words to describe my excitement, but I guess I’ll have to since this is a blog. I look forward to sharing my adventures, experiences, and pictures with you  🙂